Seven Magazine (Evening Post) Saturday 17th February 2007
Words Mark Taylor
The Set price lunch menu in the restaurant, which is served between noon & 3pm,
consists of three choices per course. The menu is priced individually so one
course costs £8, two courses are £12 & three courses £16.
It runs alongside the daily a la carte lunch menu, where starters range from £6.50
to £9, main courses are £13 to £17.50 & desserts are
about the £7 mark. This makes the set-lunch menu excellent value.
Head
chef Piero Boi arrived at Goldbrick House after a stint at The Village Pub
at Barnsley, near Cirencester. Before that he worked at notable London restaurants.
His cooking is Modern European with an emphasis on seasonal produce.
I started
with a fabulously flavoursome lamb & rosemary brochette, which
was not dissimilar to a lamb kebab in that the meat has been minced & flavoured
with cumin & rosemary, a branch of which acted as the skewer. It was served
with some nutty hummus & some well-dressed rocket leaves.
To follow, a perfectly
cooked chicken breast, which was golden-skinned & moist
within. It arrived with some tender (& very seasonal) stalks of purple
sprouting broccoli, a few baby onions & a rich, creamy wild mushroom sauce
speckled with snipped tarragon & the occasional piece of smoky pancetta.
A fabulous dish & worth the £16 three-course lunch price on its own.
To
finish, I jumped across to the main lunch menu for a huge slab of pannetone
bread & butter pudding, served with a fabulous rum & raisin ice cream.
It was a delicious end to a faultless lunch.
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