The Guardian Saturday November 11 2006
Words John Mitchell
Goldbrick is Bristol's playground du jour. Comprising a cafe/bar, champagne
bar, restaurant, terrace, library and private dining, every room is furnished
with tasteful restraint and style. And, like any good playground, there are
plenty of intriguing corners to explore. The main restaurant is a shade cramped,
although the dishes exude free-roaming flavours and are pitched just right.
Neat starters include smoked salmon and crab wrapped around fresh spinach leaves,
a great duck breast salad and a tuna tartare with a la greque vegetables. Mains
are even better, particularly roasted halibut served on a bed of tomatoes and
fennel, and lamb wellington with confit garlic mash and greens. Lemon and vanilla
cheesecake shouldn't work but does, although hazelnut and chocolate
brownie are handled with care and precision.
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