March 2008
Area Magazine
Words: Richard Hope-Hawkins
When my Goddaughter, Hannah, wanted to celebrate I thought dinner at Goldbrick House would be the perfect treat, and it was! Situated on Park Street, this splendid conversion of two Georgian houses is very reminiscent of a London arts club. There are various rooms one can hire, a Champagne bar, terrace and lots of super events. Not only is this a great place to have fun but also to dine seriously, for the cooking is of an excellent standard.
We found the staff unobtrusive and friendly as we sat in the middle of a busy restaurant, savouring the civilised atmosphere. There is an impressive menu, so while we looked I enjoyed a glass of Loire Valley Sancerre Cuvée Flores 2006 (£7.60) which was clear and crisp. Hannah selected a glass of Pinot Noir Domaine la Colombette 2005 (£6) which was rich in flavour.
Hannah chose milk roasted pork loin, creamed mash with a crispy sage and pear compote (£7.25) as her starter. The pork was tender and deliciously served and the accompaniment was perfect. I chose the Jerusalem artichoke soup with truffle oil (£5) which was rich and glorious in both flavour and texture.
For her main Hannah went for the catch of the day which was cod, served with bubble and squeak, curly kale with pancetta and topped with hollandaise sauce (£15.75). Wow, it was beautifully fresh! The pure white fish was carefully cooked and so tender it flaked off at the touch of the fork, Hannah pronounced it ‘extremely delicious.’ When I saw fillet of Beef Wellington on the menu (£22.50) I couldn't resist. Goldbrick House’s chef did it justice for the beef was as, I requested, rare to medium. It was also obviously organic and from good stock. I enjoyed every mouthful!
To accompany the beef I had a glass of Anjou Gamay 2006 (£4.20) another enjoyable Loire wine; as a past resident of the Loire Valley it remains my favourite region for French wines. Hannah drank a glass of Chilean Sauvignon 2007 (£3.80) which was an excellent accompaniment to her fish. The fantastic wine list here runs to eight pages and features diverse, interesting wines at affordable prices. I perused the champagne list (over thirty Champagnes) and saw Dom Perignon 1999 at £150 and I think I may return on my birthday for a bottle!
Onto our puddings and I chose apple pie and vanilla ice cream (£6) which reminded me of my Cornish Aunt’s wholesome cooking. Hannah ate her lemon tart with thyme and yoghurt ice cream with unconcealed relish.
This was a great dining experience and it is no wonder that Goldbrick House has been awarded two rosettes by the AA. I would advise everyone to book a table at this fine and terribly popular restaurant.